Simple Hedonisms

Posts Tagged ‘pinot noir’

The annual Holiday in Carneros is in full swing this weekend. Simple Hedonisms visited a few of the participating wineries yesterday and we share our experiences here. Tickets are still available at the 22 open wineries today from 10am-4pm. They are an excellent value at $40 for a full day of food, wine, and gorgeous fall vistas over the San Pablo baylands spanning southern Sonoma and Napa county.  The list of winery activities can be found here, and a map of participating wineries is here. We’ll also be posting additional coverage after today’s tastings.

Ceja Vineyards

Pulling up at Ceja Vineyards in Carneros, I heard music and laughter. Inside it was warm and I was welcomed, as always, by family members. The crisp, minerally Ceja Sauvignon Blanc was paired with homemade corn chowder, served steaming with queso fresca and a twist of lime. The hot spice in the chowder was tamed nicely by the SauvBlanc.  Ceja Carneros Pinot Noir is paired with noshes of dark chocolate truffle cake from Truffle Gateau of Sacramento. Worth pursuing!

All the wineries are running special offers for Holiday in Carneros guests, and Ceja’s are exceptional values, for example $50 off the 2007 Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir. This brings the Sauvignon Blanc to $11/bottle – a great value for this well-made wine.  I didn’t stay late enough, but Orchestra Borinquen was slated to play in the afternoon. This is a great spot to come inside and warm up to artisan wines, homemade soup, chocolate and salsa music!

Ceja also produces Chardonnay, Carneros Merlot and a Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, a Rosé and blends. They have a central downtown Napa tasting room open 7 days a week (closed Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day).

Adastra Vineyards

Adastra's Historic Barn Tasting Room

Adastra is a 20-acre family vineyard open only twice a year to the public. The tasting room is housed in a quaint historic barn, with old photos on the walls, along with large signs detailing special Holiday in Carneros pricing for wine, wine club, and private tours.  All grapes are estate grown and CCOF certified organic. The name “Adastra,” comes from a phrase beloved of the owner’s father: Per aspera, ad astra … through striving to the stars.

Adastra makes both an oaked and an unoaked Chardonnay. The labels state this rather simply, as shown in the photos.  My palate gravitated to the crisp unoaked Chardonnay, with a breezy, salty baylands tang coming through in the fruit. Paired with a Boucheron goat cheese, it was divine. Another memorable wine I tasted was the 2007 “Proximus” Pinot Noir. Proximus is Adastra’s reserve designation. Select small lots of wine are classified Proximus, Latin for “closer”… to the stars. Pinots are paired with a fabulous Drunken Goat cheese from a village in Spain. The cheese is dunked in wine then aged 2-3 months, giving it a grapey aftertaste that brings out new layers of flavor in the wine. Besides Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the winery also produces Merlot and a Red blend.

Departing Adastra, I noticed a group gathered around a pile of pumpkins. A sign said “Take home a pumpkin (or two),” so we did!  It was fun to come home with wine and festive pumpkins for display or holiday cooking.

Although Adastra is not open to the public, they offer a private tour and tasting by appointment. For $20/person, guests tour the historic ranch with the winemaker, and sample 7-9 wines paired with artisan cheeses. Fees are waived with wine purchases. Contact the winery for details and to make an appointment. I’m planning to!

Larson Family Winery

It took Holiday in Carneros to get me to visit Larson, and finally I’m relieved of the guilt I’ve felt at driving by on the highway dozens of times without going in.  Larson is a stand-out with their rustic barn barrel room, great food and wine pairings, and live acoustic music and vocals.  The fun starts when you step in the door and spin the “big wheel.” I won a 40% discount on case purchases for the day!

Live in the Barrel Room at Larson Family Winery

Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, and a crisp Gewurztraminer – all Carneros grown – were paired with juicy local oysters BBQ’d and served with a choice of hot sauce with lime and salt, or garlic butter (should have been called buttered garlic).  The estate-grown and produced 2007 Carneros Pinot Noir is a rich garnet with vanilla nose, and bright red fruit in the mouth.  Full-flavored yet only 13.5% alcohol makes this a very versatile Pinot at $29.99 retail.

The piece-de-résistance was a rich cheesecake smothered in Larson’s own “Three Lab Cab Chocolate Cabernet sauce.” Of course, the pairing was with Cabernet Sauvignon – I had the 2005 Sonoma Valley which was full-bodied and flavored with only 13.5% alcohol (really). This Cab in a 1.5 liter bottle is currently on sale at $55. Great wine-making, value and hospitality at Larson!

Larson makes numerous other wines, check the website for information. They are  open for tasting daily 10-5, and they are a family- and pet–friendly winery. In fact, two of the 3 labs were fetching a ball out back when I arrived.

Schug Carneros Estate

I’m really glad I had a chance to return to Schug this year. I found their new vintages really exciting and had a chance to taste some of their Reserve wines too.

The 2008 Pinot Noirs were interesting to taste side-by-side. The Sonoma Coast Pinot was ruby colored, with scents of red stone fruit. It opened into many layers on the palate: briar-patch, nettles, licorice and cherry. At 13.5% alcohol and $24 a very versatile wine. The Carneros Pinot was deep garnet with distinct berries and tasty tobacco-y tannins, for $28.

Reserve Tasting in the Cave at Schug Carneros

In the cave, I tasted 2007 Rouge et Noir made from 100% Pinot Noir grapes from the Ricci vineyard on the cool Napa side of Carneros.  I was provided with a slender flute to taste the bubbly, which was rose-colored, light and toasty. The 2007 Schug Carneros Chardonnay Heritage Reserve was dry, floral and tasted of golden raisins. Paired with Cypress Grove’s Purple Haze goat cheese flavored with lavender and fennel. Yummy!  Another Heritage Reserve wine was the 2007 Carneros Pinot Noir. Paired with the 6-month aged El Trigal Manchego cheese it was stunning.

I recommend Holiday in Carneros guests take advantage of this opportunity to taste the Schug Reserve wines paired with great cheeses. It’s a $10 optional fee and well worth it.

Schug makes Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot, Merlot and Cab, including some Rosé and Sparkling versions. The tasting room is open daily 10-5.

Plan Your Day!

These are just a few of the wineries participating, to give you a flavor of the event. Each spot on the map offers a unique experience, direct access to the people behind the wines, and dramatic fall vineyard scenery. And it’s all for a good cause, as proceeds help to fund scholarships at Santa Rosa Junior College and Napa Valley College.  To get the most out of your day, don’t forget to read Simple Hedonisms’ advice on planning for a tasting event outing. If you use Twitter, search on hashtag #HiC10 to see posts and tips in real time today.

This weekend marks the 7^th Annual Pinot on The River Festival. My 2^nd year in attendance, I found this event to be one of the best organized, enjoyable, and if you are a Pinot lover, an incredible experience and opportunity to immerse yourself in the opportunity to taste and explore dozens of small production, often allocated, Pinot Noirs.

Pinot; You Never Forget Your First Seductress

While I have been focusing on more on Rhone varietals these days;  Pinot Noir will always be a mainstay love in my life. About ten years ago she rescued me from the doldrums of drinking predominantly Bordeaux varietals,  lightened by the occasional Sauvignon Blanc and (thankfully) Viognier.

I was living in Marin and the City, working  in Petaluma, and making frequent jaunts to the Russian River Valley.  Pinot Noir was the change I was seeking for a palate tired of being oppressed by oak and tannins. Her lush, silky embrace wooed me. I had grown up from dating girls, to a slightly more mature, heady, woman.

The Events

While many focus on the Sunday Grand Artisanal Tasting, held Sunday afternoon at Rodney Strong, there are events all weekend.

Pinot On The River 2010 begins Friday evening, October 22, with “Friday Night Out In The Valley” dinner hosted this year at Roadhouse Winery in Healdsburg. Saturday,

Saturday, October 23 features seminars focused on the 2009 Vintage of Pinot Noir and A Vintage Retrospective looking at older vintages, moderated by Gregory S. Walter, editor of Pinot Report.pini

The festival kicks into high gear Saturday night with the “A Taste Of Pinot” dinner event. The dinner is a fundraiser for the Boys & Girls Clubs of Central Sonoma County, featuring the first annual “A Taste Of Pinot” dinner at the Hotel Healdsburg in Healdsburg. The event will feature Pinot-inspired tastings of unique small bites prepared by Charlie Palmer’s Dry Creek Kitchen paired with limited production Pinot Noir from a group of producers.

On Sunday, October 24, more than 100 wineries will gather to pour their best Pinots for the walkaround “Grand Artisanal Pinot Noir Tasting at the Rodney Strong Vineyards.” Cheese purveyors.

Some Advice for the Grand Tasting – Spit it Out

If you are in or close to the wine industry, by now you have learned how to properly enjoy an event like this. If you are a typical consumer, this suggestion is often received as distasteful. At this years IPNC I listened to an older consumer ask a winemaker “Why are some people spitting anyway, I dump out, isn’t that the same?” Sadly, the winemaker missed out on an opportunity to help educate, and offered no contrary opinion.

Do the math; a hundred producers, many pouring multiple releases. If you tried 50 of them, quite feasible over 3-4 hours (I will taste ~50-100) and swallowed a ½ ounce of the 1-2 ounces poured, you will have consumed a bottle of wine. (or easily more.) Even if you have a Designated Driver, and say a high tolerance, why should you care, you ask?

I guess it depends on what your goal of the event is. This is a unique opportunity to compare side by side,  dozens of styles of one of the most subtle, terroir expressive varietals you can taste. Only a few ounces of alcohol begin to alter your sensory evaluation abilities, though you may not realize it at first.  Give your palate the opportunity to explore, compare, and contrast the vintages without the mask of alcohol impairment.

This is an event where you will see industry, writers, and the most serious of consumers walking around, red cup in hand. If you consider yourself a pinot-phile and becoming a more serious evaluator of wine; try it, even for an hour. It transformed the way I learned to appreciate wine.

Tickets are available here. Note, I have a limited time discount code for specially priced tickets for Simple Hedonisms readers. Contact me right away if interested.

Live Coverage:

Simple Hedonisms will be roaming around the event seeking out our favorite releases, and sharing experiences and tasting notes live over Facebook and Twitter (Hashtag #POTR2010). If you follow my writing and shared palate experiences; its no surprise what I will be seeking and most likely to praise; modestly made, less extracted, no syrah added, graceful, delicate, light, feminine Pinot Noir.

Hope you will follow and enjoy.

If you see me roaming around, stainless spit cup and iPad in hand, say hi!

Facebook Input

P.S. On that note, I have typically share my tasting notes live on Twitter, as well on Facebook, via my personal page…recently I have been posting instead on the S H Fan page – any preference of either? (Even though the Fan page has more followers, the personal page oddly still gets more response.

The world through DUNSTAN Rosé glasses

Ever since I had a taste of DUNSTAN Rosé at a summer wine event, I lusted after this wine.  Finally I caught up with it at the launch of the 2009 vintage.  I got to explore what it was about my first taste that made this wine so memorable.  In the process I spent time on the Durell Ranch where the grapes are grown and learned the story behind the wine and it’s label.

Like most romances, this one begins with the visuals. An extraordinary salmon-peach wine color radiates through clear glass, with a silver foil that seems to reflect the color of the wine.  Label information is spare … an ethereal horseshoe shape etched in metallic ink and a website address on the back. At this point, we don’t know from which type of grape this Rosé is made, which process is used, nor anything about it’s character. But I am only more enchanted and more curious.

I went over to meet with Chris Towt, who in partnership with Ellie Phipps Price make wines from a single block of the Durell Vineyard in the Sonoma Coast wine-growing region.  I learned that the object of my desire is a Rosé of Pinot Noir, from grapes planted by Phipps Price in 2005, resulting in this first vintage in 2009.  This silvery liquid is produced using the saignée (pronounced ‘sonyay’) method that involves making rosé from red grapes by bleeding off some of the juice after a limited time in contact with skins. Since skin contact is what gives color to wine, limiting time “on the skins” results in the many shades of Rosé you see in the marketplace. (The two other methods of making Rosé are vin gris – where red grapes are pressed to yield lightly-colored juice; and blending – where red and white wine or juice is blended together.)

The DUNSTAN Horseshoe

The website tells the Dunstan story in the words of Ellie and Chris: “You’ve seen a horseshoe hanging above a doorway — a symbol of protection and luck.  According to 10th century legend, a blacksmith named Dunstan was visited by the Devil to have his shoes reset.  While fitting the shoes, Dunstan quicked the Devil who implored for the shoe to be removed.  Dunstan agreed, but only after the Devil promised never to enter a dwelling with a horseshoe hanging above the door. When we were first planting the Ranch House Block at Durell, a very large horseshoe was unearthed.  Rusted and obviously very old, it served as the inspiration for the name of our new wine.”

The Durell Vineyard

Ranch House Block at Durell Vineyard

The Durell Vineyard is so well-known as an origin point of fine wines of distinct complexity that many wineries include it on their labels. And many award-winning wines have their genesis from these 400 acres. I’ve even seen it advertised along the roadside, such as the “Durell Pinot” sign outside Chateau St. Jean in Sonoma Valley. Don van Staaveren is the winemaker for Dunstan. He was winemaker at Chateau St. Jean from 1985-1997, and has been making wines from Durell grapes for many years.  How did DUNSTAN decide to make a Rosé? It was van Staaveren’s idea. DUNSTAN is getting such good feedback, they are already planning for more cases of Rosé in the coming vintages.

DUNSTAN’s Ranch House Block of the Durell Vineyard is planted in 3-1/2 acres of Chardonnay and 5 acres Pinot Noir grapes. The DUNSTAN launch also saw the first release of their 2008 Chardonnay and 2008 Pinot Noir.  The way the DUNSTAN horseshoe image is carried out across the bottles makes for a stunning trio – golden Chardonnay with gold foil, gold metallic ink, and Pinot Noir in a commanding black bottle with black foil. The wines can be purchased at the DUNSTAN online store.

Dunstan the Pony

Dunstan the Pony

Towt and Phipps Price share a love of horses and ride regularly on the property. We stop by the stables to greet Dunstan, a little Indian pony Ellie purchased at auction from the BLM Colorado Wild Horse Inmate Program. Ellie is actively involved in rescue efforts and recently was instrumental in saving 172 wild horses from going to slaughter at a Nevada auction as part of the Lifesavers Wild Horse Rescue. Dunstan rushes up when he sees Chris and – now completely tame – responds affectionately to a nose rub and a handful of fresh hay.

DUNSTAN is open by appointment only for tours and tasting. Call the winery at 707.933.3839 or email info@dunstanwines.com to schedule.

WINE REVIEW

Wine: 2009 DUNSTAN Rosé, Durell Vineyard, Sonoma Coast

Color: Salmon, silvery apricot

Aromas: Layers of floral melon, butterscotch, and a hint of mint

In the Mouth: There’s a soft mouth feel, a pleasant viscosity. Front of mouth is fruity, distinctly strawberry. Fleeting taste of bacon at the back of the mouth, with a lingering mineral finish that expands and contracts … like an almost-remembered summer day. Refreshing, addictive.

Pairing: Salmon and tuna sushi, thin sliced cured meats and melon, white mushroom and cream sauces, herb-roasted poultry.  The romance of this Rosé lends itself well to a picnic, BBQ, or festive holiday table.

Wine Geek Details:

Alcohol: 14.1%
Hand-harvested, Sept 9, 2009
Brix: 25
TA: 0.82 g/100ml
pH: 3.45
Acreage: 5 acres Dijon clones (115, 667, 828, Clara, and Swan)
Aging: 50% neutral oak / 50% stainless steel
Cases Produced: 59
AVA: Sonoma Coast
Winemaker: Don van Staaveren

$24 Retail
Website
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How do you know when you like a wine?  “It should have a wow factor … it should scream at you,” says John Saemann, vintner at Clouds Rest Winery in Sonoma County.  Clouds Rest has been hand-producing Pinot Noir from a small Sonoma Coast vineyard since 2002.  These are collector’s wines, priced outside my budget at around $100 a bottle. Good news: a new addition to the Clouds Rest Pinot lineup is available, and at a much lower price point. It’s Femme Fatale, a younger release from the same vineyard, priced at $45 ($39 with case discount). K&L Wine passes along their discount, bringing it down to $39 for a single bottle purchase – outright affordable for a Pinot Noir in this class.

2008 Femme Fatale

I got the wow factor when I tasted the 2008 Clouds Rest Femme Fatale recently … rich cherry red, aromas of ripe stone fruit, flavors of blackberry, plum, pepper, light smoky tannins and hint of rosemary … rolling into a soft, mouth-filling viscosity. My attention shifted to follow the flavor explosion and structure of this wine.  And I’m not alone. Beth Arnold wrote of Clouds Rest Pinot Noir in Huffington Post, “Their Pinots retail for at least $100 a bottle. But, my God, I was almost in tears they were so good.”  And she lives in Paris, so you can imagine the wines she has access to on a regular basis.  “Pinot is a wine for me that brings together so many varietal characteristics into one glass,” John told me, with a heavenward roll of his eyes. Wow factor is more than the look, feel and taste of the wine … it is a quality that transports and totally engages you — like a great movie or a conversation with a good friend.

Seamann says Clouds Rest wanted to give more people access to their Pinot Noir, but without compromising the label.  Femme Fatale is the answer; grapes come from the same vines and terroir Clouds Rest is known for, and the wine-making process is the same, except for bottle aging.  Femme Fatale is released earlier (younger), saving the winery on storage cost. How much? Up to 3 years of bottle aging for the collectors wines. Savings are also passed along through simpler packaging. Femme Fatale’s lighter weight bottle is less costly to ship. Paper labels save cost compared to gilt silk-screened labels on the heavy Burgundian bottles used for collectors’ wines.

Narrow rows above the clouds at Clouds Rest -- Photo: Scott Schuette

What goes into creating the “wow factor” in a wine?

A few things: winemaking skill and style, choice of barrels, choice of grape stock planted, farming style – and terroir. Think of terroir as the vineyard version of “location, location, location.” In this respect, Clouds Rest, on it’s perch above Petaluma California, is very unique.

I walked the vineyard with Scott Schuette, Clouds Rest General Manager and unofficial photographer. Scott tells me the vines are planted at 1250 feet, on an ancient volcanic knoll that was never before cultivated. It had been impossible to farm because of steep terrain and the volcanic rocks strewn over the landscape. To create the vineyard, Seamann ripped out rocks – some quite large – down to a 6-foot depth. Huge piles of extracted rocks dot the property today.  Rows are planted just 3 feet apart, the only known 36”x36” density in California — and possibly anywhere. On less than 2 acres, there are 10,000 vines – producing volume equivalent to about 10 acres of vineyard. Crowding plants this way would normally invite mildew and fungus. But because Clouds Rest is situated in the Petaluma wind gap, there is constant movement of marine air between the Sonoma coast and San Pablo Bay. Rows are deliberately angled to capture maximum sun and air movement on the hill.

Volcanic rocks extracted

The Clouds Rest philosophy is to orchestrate what the vineyard gives them. Having a rockstar winemaker helps too: Anthony Austin who studied under Andre Tchelistcheff, a legendary winemaker of Napa and Sonoma Valley. A Healdsburg (Sonoma county) California native and University of California Davis graduate in enology, Austin directed the first crush at Firestone Vineyards in 1976. He went on to become an award-winning winemaker of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in the Santa Barbara area, and returned to make wine in Sonoma in 2001.

Irrigation lines and a huge water storage tank are visible on our walk, and yet no water was used during this wet weather year. These deliberately austere conditions – rocky, windy, crowded, dry — are influenced by the French “intensive” method. Intensive farming forces the vines to compete and struggle, resulting in small fruit of dense and complex flavor.

Dense clustering

Pinot Noir is a notoriously difficult grape to cultivate. It is thin-skinned, prone to rot, viruses, diseases, and vulnerable to over-crowding.  Tchelistcheff has said, “God made Cabernet Sauvignon whereas the devil made Pinot Noir.” There is a reason Pinot Noir is higher priced: the grape is difficult to grow and takes a great deal of viticultural skill and hands‐on processing to result in a good bottle. Against these odds, the wow factor is alive and well in Femme Fatale.  And Austin believes the harsh conditions at Clouds Rest force the grapes to develop thicker skins; thereby retaining more flavor and essence.

What gives wine the “wow factor” for you?

At the end of the day, the wow factor is about what you like. Wine preference is unique to each person, so what appeals to you may be different than for others. What gives a wine the wow factor for you? Where does the aroma and taste transport you to? What do you think goes into creating the wow factor in a wine? Please comment below – Simple Hedonisms would love to hear about your experiences!

Where can you find Femme Fatale?

Fem Fatale, as well as Clouds Rest Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, are available at Roadhouse Winery Tasting Room in Healdsburg, and Bounty Hunter in Napa. Check the Clouds Rest website for online purchase and for a list of restaurants pouring Clouds Rest wines. And as mentioned, K&L Wines is carrying 2008 Femme Fatale.

Clouds Rest will be pouring at Family Winemakers of California, Aug 22-23 at Fort Mason Center in San Francisco.

Clouds Rest will be a featured in the “Grand Reserve” tent at Taste of Sonoma: Wine Country Weekend during Labor Day holiday. They are also pouring at the Sept 3^rd Winemakers Lunch and at other venues throughout the event.

The Russian River Valley (RRV) has emerged over the last decade as a world renowned region of wine growing. It’s especially recognized for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but many great varietals from Rhones like roussanne and cool climate syrah, to cool climate zinfandel are produced here.

This weekend, August 20-22 is the showcase event for RRV, the 15th Annual Grape to Glass.

Friday August 20th

There are several great events to choose from Friday:

CELLARPASS WINERY SENSATIONS PASSPORT:

Your very own VIP CellarPass to tour our many participating wineries and discover what makes each sensational. Hosted by CellarPass, an online reservation tool for planning and booking wine country events, wineries will open exclusive bottles and surprise you with their own special attraction. Visit at least four participating wineries and you’ll be entered into a drawing to win a return trip back to the Russian River Valley in 2011.  11 a.m. – 430 p.m. $45

IN CONCERT WITH THE ARTISANS

Taste an amazing array of the best of Russian River food and wine, hosted at the Hyatt Vineyard Creek in Santa Rosa.

The Evening’s Schedule:
6:00pm – 8:00pm Russian River Valley Varietal Hosted Garden Tasting
8:15pm – 9:45pm Concert with Nick Palance – No Host Bar, No Host Small Plates
10:00pm – 10:45pm Nick Palance Reception & Signing, No Host Bar

Tickets start at $85

Saturday August 21st

Saturday features a wide array of activities and seminars: everything from Kayaking the Russian River, to Seminars on Green Farming, or touring Pinot Noir Neighborhoods. No matter what your interest in food and wine, there is something for everyone; for the complete list click here. Events have limited space so don’t wait too long!

The amazing day wraps up with the spectacular HOG IN THE FOG ~ Festival of Plenty, hosted at the fabulous Richards Grove in Saralee’s Vineyard, in Windsor, a venue open only a few times a year for events.

The Russian River Valley Winegrowers annual Hog in the Fog ~ Festival of Plenty BBQ is a perennial favorite with its TasteFest and auction. This year add’s live music, art by our vintner artists, and a surprise guest chef known for firing up great BBQ recipes.

The event features more than fifty Russian River Valley wineries, small-bites produced from our region’s fabulous food products, silent auction items, and arts created by our versatile and talented vintners. Grape growers will be prepare the evening’s plentiful BBQ feast.

Dinner will be paired (of course) with Russian River Valley wines.  Vintners and growers will roll up their sleeves and make the rounds with great bottles.  The evening commences with a live auction featuring rare library wines and lifestyle packages.  $115/person.

Sunday August 20th

What better way to spend a Sunday, with Bubbles and gorgeous views at the BUBBLES & PIXELS ~ A Sparkling Pink Finish at Iron Horse Vineyards, a personal favorite. 

Set on the Sterling family’s stunning 350-acre estate, Bubbles & Pixels will feature the Sparkling & Pink wines of the Russian River Valley.  Wines are served with a family-style brunch, created by a top wine country chef and featuring local produce and artisan food products.
A panel of judges will announce the winners of the TasteLive Photo Contest. 10:30 a.m.  – 12:30 p.m.  $80

Have a GREAT Weekend, the Weather looks to

I have been a fan of C. Donatiello since I discovered them some 18 months ago, both for their wines, and the gorgeous property.
For those who may not yet be familiar with C. Donatiello or its location, Chris Donatiello, in partnership with Bill Hambrecht, purchased the facilities from Belvedere in 2006, and have morphed it into a world class facility and producer of stunning Russian River Valley Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

C. Donatiello’s winemaker is Webster Marquez, also referred to as Web. An affable winemaker,  Web  is focused, committed, and always chasing making his best vintage yet, he comes to C. Donatiello from famous Pinot producer Williams Selyem. (He also has his own small label, Anthill Farms.)

In addition to their winery being a pleasure to visit, renowned for casual yet elegant service, each Sunday from late June through October 3rd they feature live music, with acts from all over the U.S. at no charge. It’s one of my Sunday’ faves, I almost hate to share to keep it smaller, but somethings are too good to keep to your self.

I was long overdue for a full tasting review; and was delighted for an invitation, as well as be one of the first for their new wine and cheese pairing which for $20, is one of the most underpriced, amazing Hedonistic pairings going on in Russian River. More on this in another post, but take my word for it, call for an appointment to schedule one of these.

Review

I have a special interest in this release, having just recently toured Floodgate Vineyard with vineyard manager Warren Burton, and new wine producer Cartograph Wines.

Region/AVA: Block 15, Floodgate Vineyard, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County

Color: Lighter cranberry color, slightly opaque. (A thankful break from the ridiculously dark Pinot’s being produced today by many.)

Aroma: Cherry, Cranberry, with a pleasant touch of Earthiness

In The Mouth: Elegant. Despite the youth of this release, it’s a pleasure in the mouth, with velvet texture, wonderful balance and mouthfeel. Flavors of cherry and red fruit, with a nice finish, and  lingering acidity.

Price: $49 Retail

Wine Geek Info:

• Harvest Date – Sept 4, 2008
• Barrel Program – 10 months French Oak, 35% new
• Bottled – July 22, 2009
• 400 cases produced

Highly Recommend.

I have been trying to spend a bit more time in the Willamette Valley region of Oregon, given my regular travel to the Portland area. I was fortunate enough to spend a half day touring again last month as part of a Pre WBC (Wine Bloggers Conference) Tour, before driving up to Walla Walla. Lynette Shaw of Soléna, organized an entire afternoon for 15  wine bloggers. The highlight of the day was the incredible hospitality we received by the Soléna team, as well as fabulous food pairing and lunch. with their Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris.

About Solena Estates

Soléna Estates is owned by the husband and wife team of Laurent Montalieu and Danielle Andrus Montalieu. Laurent brings a French heritage, Bordeaux, not Burgundy, interestingly enough. Laurent took his first steps in the vineyard in Medoc owned by his great grandfather, Joseph Montalieu. His interest in viticulture led him to the Institute of Oenology of Bordeaux, where he studied viticulture and oenology. (Growing wine grapes and making wine.) After graduating in 1987 he worked for Chateau La Tour Blanche near Sauternes, and Domaine Mumm in California’s Napa Valley before moving to Oregon. After seven years at Bridgeview Vineyards in Cave Junction, Laurent joined WillaKenzie Estate in 1995 as partner and winemaker.

In May of 2000 Laurent and Danielle purchased an 80 acre estate as their wedding gift to each other, and with an interesting twist, registered with vineyard nurseries for six different clones of Pinot Noir grafts that guests could by as wedding gifts. (Hmmm maybe marrying again has some benefits.)

In May 2002, they launched Soléna by releasing their first bottling and, shortly thereafter, opening a tasting room in Carlton.

In 2009, they opened a new tasting room, located on their estate property in Yamhill,  now home to the new Soléna and Grand Cru Estates winery.

Review

The Soléna 2009 Pinot Gris is very interesting, and a standout amongst the many fine Pinot Gris releases in Willamette Valley. I opened two different Pinot Gris’ as the time of tasting, the second being from another from a Willamette winery I respect, and the differences were remarkable.

At the time I did the review; the 2009 was about to be released, and specs weren’t published, so I wrote to Lynette with questions. I though I recalled they used no oak or malolactic fermentation (ML) but the texture, density, mouth feel, made me scratch my head and question if (neutral) oak or ML were used during vinification.

Lynette advised neither was used, nor was I the first to be confused. As the illustrious Wine Spectator aptly described: 

Silky, with an almond edge to the apricot and apple flavors, lingering gently.

This balance is achieved by the fruit, that  is sourced  from several vineyards: Stone Ridge in the Chehalem Mountains, ElvenGlade in the Yamhill-Carlton District and Del Rio from the Rogue Valley. The variations are purposefully chosen and blended to offer flavor and structure. Grapes of higher acidity from cooler climate, blended with riper fruit from warm climates, and little manipulation, provide the complexity and differentiation.

Region/AVA: The grapes for this release of Pinot Gris are selected by design from multiple Oregon vineyards, thus no AVA designation.

Color: Pale straw color

Lately I have been taking a bit more time to enjoy and network with my ‘second’ city.  I travel to regularly to Portland Oregon for work, and keep a flat just outside the city. I am also a big fan of the nearby Willamette Valley wine region. My heart belongs to Sonoma, but I have had a soft spot for Portland and Willamette for many years, and have come here regularly for work and play.

Oregon Brewer’s Festival

Portland considers itself  THE microbrew mecca of the U.S., and this is it’s crown jewel. A multitude of events occur all week, with 70 thousand people usually from almost all 50 states flying in. (Note to you newbies, reserve cars, hotels, months in advance.)

Tip:

Serious beer geeks and tasters, get there early Thursday and Friday. By late afternoon, especially Friday, the lines become long and the event transforms from beer geeking to a mass party Downtown comes alive each night as revelers move to other venues.

Spit Cups Come to The Brewers Fest?

Talk to serious pub staff and beer drinkers in Portland, and you hear some of the same words wine geeks use,such as “flavor profile.” It dawned on me, that attending previous big microbrew events, especially the massive Great American Beer Festival in Denver, you can’t get down two of the 20+ aisles, even with 2 oz pours without getting schnockered.

Given that Thursday night I am headed to a pre IPNC event at Anne Amie, my same wine tasting rules apply – simply, I need to spit some of the beer, or just reduce Thursday night to a giant party, not a wine tasting.  It seems for microbrew TASTING, the same tasting principles apply; after a small amount of alcohol, sensory perception is distorted, so why not use this same principle and spit? Doubly so since I love Belgian triples, and other high gravity ales, that often top 7-10% alcohol, and quickly take affect.

I have gotten used to attending weekend wine passport events and getting stares for my spit cup; last week I got razzed by a flight attendant for a Riedel O (stemless glass) I carry; I see no point to not continue to blaze forward and be the only guy carrying around a spit cup! (Maybe others practice this in the beer industry, but I have never seen it at Brewers Fest.)

Festivities start tonight with the sold out S.N.O.B.  (Supporters of Native Oregon Beer) pre-event dinner, and special beers you may not see other days. Thursday opens with a parade and (sold out) brunch. I am attending a media tour/tasting Thursday afternoon, then enjoying some time on the scenic riverfront before taking the bus out to Anne Amie winery for the (also sold out) Counter Culture Pre-IPNC event.

And it Continues

Friday afternoon I am touring a few Willamette wineries, (still picking, feel free to suggest, lobby) and then attending an IPNC tasting and dinner. More on IPNC in a seperate post.

Saturday I jet back to North Sonoma to attend a special winemakers dinner and vineyard tour. (Not allowed to disclose until after.)

Sunday is a mini trip to Spain at the marvelous Gloria Ferrer Catalan Festival.

Monday I think I will rest!

I will be actively tweeting tasting notes, and profiles at both events. Hash tag for IPNC is #IPNC2010 (many still using just #IPNC) and for the Oregon Brewers Fest is #OBF. Will tweet and cross post pictures on Facebook, time, battery, and AT&T cell permitting!

Have a great weekend, cheers!

The Russian River Valley in North Sonoma, is a special place for me as it played a big role in my early discovery of wine, especially my beloved Pinot Noir. I am proud to be a Associate Member of the RRV Winegrowers, (a non profit organization) and do what I can to help promote this wonderful region.

I am excited about a new event that is coming up – Single Night: Single Vineyards. Before you go, ‘well I have a significant other, oh well’ ‘single’ means the wines poured are Single Vineyard Designates. Single Vineyard wines are produced from varietals (grapes) that come exclusively from a single vineyard (sometimes even just a single block, or area of a vineyard.) This is a special treat as it provides the ultimate expression of ‘terroir’ of the vineyard. In a more subtle, delicate varietal like Pinot Noir, one of the primary wine varietal grown in RRV, its a wonderful experience to compare wines this way.

Single also refers to single bites of food, so grab your singularly wonderful significant other and come for a night of great wine, food, music, and fun.

The event is being hosted at C. Donatiello Winery cellar, accented by Pete Avdoulos’ Liquid Metal Fine Art Paintings.

It’s an impressive list of  participating wineries, some not open to public, including : Acorn Winery, Ancient Oak Cellars, Balletto Vineyards, Benovia Winery, D&L Carinalli, Dutton-Goldfield, Ferrari-Carano Vineyards & Winery, Foppiano Vineyards, Foppoli Wines, Graton Ridge Cellars, Healdsburg Ranches, Hop Kiln Winery, J. Lynne Wines, John Tyler Wines, Joseph Swan, Ketcham Estate, Korbel Champagne Cellars, Landy Family Vineyards, Longboard Vineyards, Lynmar Estate, Martinelli Winery, Merry Edwards Wines, Papapietro Perry Winery, Patz & Hall, Siduri Wines, Twomey Cellars, Williams Selyem, Windsor Oaks, Y. Rousseau Wines.

The festivities kick off at 6:30 with a Single Vineyard tasting of Russian River Valley wines, paired with single bites of local artisan food.  While you enjoy these simple hedonisms, be entertained by  next generation vintner and grower “Cellar Teams”  antics to promote their Group Bid Adventure Auction Lots that will raise funds for educational programs. You can preview these lots via videos on the Facebook Fan Page.

At 8 p.m.,  the event moves to the crush pad for the Adventure Auction. A no-host bar featuring wines under $25 (offered by the taste and glass) and wallet-friendly grilled goods will continue to fuel the night. The adventures lots, personally hosted by vintners and growers, are designed for 6 to 10 people so bring your friends to bid as a group!

Auction items include:

• Plane rides over the Russian River Valley
• A kayaking and clam bake on the Russian River
• Classic Jeep vineyard treks
• Hot air ballooning
• And a winery cave tasting with more than just frills

At the conclusion of the auction, the party livens up with music from DJ’s Franco Finn and Samantha Vegas’ and the winery crush pad into a dance floor  – get your wine country groove on!

Tickets are limited, so join Simple Hedonisms at this fun event, try some amazing wines, and have a perfect evening in the Russian River Valley.

To purchase tickets (only $45 in advance, $55 at door), click here.

Cheers!

Greetings Simple Hedonisms Lovers

I am enjoying a rare week with no business travel, and brimming with anticipation for this Saturday’s 2010 Pinot Noir Summit, with 8 hours of seminars, blind tastings, and food pairings on my beloved varietal, Pinot.  (Only 250 tickets total, and a handful left for the full or partial day event, check this post for special discount Barbara was nice enough to extend blog readers.)

Tonight’s treat is the James Family Cellars 2007 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, Stony Point Vineyard. I have had this Pinot a few times at Cellars of Sonoma, and was a fan from the first mouth swirl.

This is a small family of growers, now also turned Vitners; after a decade of growing and selling their fruit, they turned to making small lots. For a first release, I think they did exceptionally well.

I am becoming rapidly growing fan of Sonoma Coast and Anderson Valley Pinot Noir, and need to get out of my backyard here in Russian River more (hard to leave my favorites ) and explore more in person.

Color: Clear, violet, to ruby.

Nose: Pleasant, classic Pinot aromas of cherry, red fruit, a hint of floral.

In the Mouth: Mouth pleasing but not overpowering cherry, strawberry, a hint of cranberry, vanilla. Great balance, mouthfeel, weight.The finish is as a Pinot should be – a velvety lingering kiss that slowly dissipates in your mouth, with no sign of heat or tannins, just hedonistic pleasure that makes you want another mouthful.

Whether its my palette become more attuned to Pinot Noir delicacies, or just fatigued to over extracted Pinot Noirs trying to be a Rhone like varietal, I really liked this release. It captures the essence of Pinot, but doesn’t required you be the Burghound to enjoy it.

Highly recommended; $35 at Cellars of Sonoma, sold direct, and possibly other venues.

Hope to see you other Pinot Lovers Saturday!

Wine Geek Notes:

Cases Produced: 211 cases

Varietal Composition: 100% Pinot Noir

Appellation: Sonoma Coast

Barrel Aging: 10 months in French Oak (33% new)

Titratable Acidity: 0.53g/100ml

Clones: 113, 115, 828

Vineyard: Stony Point Vineyard

Harvest Dates: 9/29 and 10/5/07 Alcohol: 14.3% pH: 3.68