Posts Tagged ‘Burgundy’
It’s a bit ironic as a blogger and now small vintner, well known for love of Rhône wines, that I regularly come to the defense of Chardonnay.
Several years ago for #ChardonnayDay, when others scoffed at such a concept, I held a tasting for 10 producers of varied styles that people raved about later. The tasting accomplished my goal of demonstrating that Chardonnay is perhaps the most widely varied varietal in profile of any I know, based on where its from, and wine making techniques.
Stop Thinking of California Chardonnay As THE Representative Of The Varietal
The biggest mistake consumers make is when they write off Chardonnay because of the classic California oaky butter ball/bomb (think Rombauer.)
The style has the illusion of defining Chardonnay because many of the large brands produce these styles by the millions of cases.
Let’s be clear, these wines are often vinified (aka manipulated) to achieve this flavor and texture, including extra Malic acid added to convert to Lactic acid, for the big butter texture. Lower end wines have oak chips added, higher priced ones get over oaked in new French barrels.
However, there are a number of small vintners who make excellent chardonnay not in a classic non California style. This, however, is not my focus today. I encourage you to taste from producers like, Inman Family Wines, Ryme, Donelan, to name only a few.
I generally encourage domestic wines, and supporting local vintners, where possible, as many high quality small Vintners are often missed.
However to win over the jaded Chardonnay pundit, I often find it necessary to make a radical palate shift, and taste a consumer through the Chardonnay’s from Burgundy – and when I want to make the most impact, if I think their palate will appreciate, I go right to the north of Burgundy – for Chablis.
Jug Wine Names From Decades Past – No Connection
Unfortunately wine consumers sometimes hear ‘Chablis’ and “White Burgundy’ and unfortunately may conjure up the images of old Ernest & Julio Gallo or Carlo Rossi white jug wines. It’s a tragedy the names of generations of stunning French white wines were connected with these jug wines, as they bear no resemblance.
The fact that Carlo Rossi STILL sells a 4.0 Liter jug wine called ‘Chablis’ is support for why we globally trademark and protect wine regions. This is not ‘Chablis’ just as Barefoot Bubbly is not ‘champagne’ – Grandfathering be damned in the latter case.
What Defines & Distinguishes Chablis
Chablis is sometimes referred to as the ‘purest’ form of Chardonnay, because the vinification techniques are the least impacting on flavor profile.
Most of Chablis is fermented in stainless steel or neutral oak barrel, with aging in stainless, or a mix of used oak barrels, with minimal new. Chablis is the Northern most region in Burgundy, thus cooler, so the wines are generally quite high in acid and bright. Most Chablis, that I have tasted anyway, generally go through Malolactic fementation, which helps give another layer of complexity to these bright wines.
However, wine making alone can not account for Chablis being so different than other Chardonnay from Burgundy.
The soils of Chablis are known as Kimmeridge clay which is a composition of limestone, clay and tiny fossilized oyster shells. All of Chablis’ Grand Cru vineyards and Premier Cru vineyards are planted on primarily Kimmeridgean soil which imparts a distinctively mineral, flinty note to the wines.
You may scoff at concept of ‘terroir’, but the essence of seashells, salinity, and minerality are captured perfectly in the aroma and flavor profile of these delightful wines.
How Could You NOT Love These Wines
For the wine aficionado, the world of Chablis offers much. If your palate favors acid driven wines, mineral laden whites, there is much to love in Chablis, especially in the offers from the Premier and Grand Crus. White wines that have steely, mineral, saline notes, that scream for food, but are impeccably enjoyable solo. Great Chablis exists at all price points, with good quality as low as $20, but there is a difference when you pay for Premier & Grand Cru that can not be denied.
Don’t be a afraid to splurge for an older bottle on a fine wine list. Acid, more than tannin, is what preserves a wine and allows it to age, and indeed many Chablis benefit from a few years in bottle before releasing.
Chablis Media Tour
Last month I was invited to a small media tasting and lunch, hosted by the Chablis Wine Board and Pure Chablis. Winemaker & President Jean Francois Bordet, led the tasting personally. I have always been a fan of Chablis, but this tasting was the ‘ah ha!’ epiphany moment that made me wake up. Why am I not drinking more of these wines?!
I am now so smitten with Chablis that in ten days I am spending two days there touring, prior heading to my beloved Northern Rhone, and in fact at the expense of some Rhone tasting appointments. Those who follow my passion, know what a statement that is.
Look for an article series in the New Year as I tour vineyards, cellars, talk with Vintners, as well as updates on our Facebook page.
Tasting Notes: Chablis You Can Purchase In the US
- An incredible value for Chablis, at $20. A gorgeous yellow with a slight greenish hue. Nose of saline, green apple, pear. In the mouth its bright, fresh with classic flinty minerality, citrus, and a lingering finish. 92 Points.
2009 La Chablisienne Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Léchet
- Light yellow in color. Rich nose of saline, chalk, green melon. In the mouth its bright, well balanced, that lingers pleasantly on the finish. A good value for a Premier Cru, from 25 year old vines, aged in both stainless tanks and barrel. ~$30. 92 Points.
2009 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent
- An outstanding Chablis from hand picked fruit, gravity fed flow, natural yeast & ML fermentation. Light yellow color with a green tinge. Nose of wet stone, lemon. Very bright in the mouth with great flinty minerality, tart green apple, lemon. A young wine that will improve in bottle. ~$45. 93 Points.
2008 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
- Richer in style than other Chablis. Harvested from 50 year old vines, 50% stainless, 50% barrel: 10% New, 90% 1-3 year barrels, eight months. Light to medium yellow color. Nose of wet stone, lemon zest , kiwi. Rich in the mouth, tropical fruit, long finish. Use of oak detectable but not overwhelming. ~$50. 90 Points.
2008 Joseph Drouhin Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos Domaine de Vaudon
- A stunning Grand Cru Chablis from 37 year old vines, farmed Biodynamically since 2000. Medium yellow color. Expressive nose of lemon zest, wet stone, citrus. Complex & elegant on the palate; expressive pure fruit, saline, with a long finish. Still a baby, with many years ahead to develop. ~$55. 93 Points
From K&L Wine in San Francisco
2011 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Champs Royaux
- This is a great value at $20, The 2011 Champs Royaux is equal parts estate and purchased fruit, mostly from left bank sites. The nose is of crushed seashells, lime, grapefruit. The palate is clean, bright citrus on front, the mid palate has excellent wet stone minerality, the finish is long, with saline and wet rock notes. 90 Points.
2010 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume
- Nose is an opulent mix of white grapefruit, lime pith,, with an undertone of saline. In the mouth, its bright, tart, white peach, lime. The mid palate is pleasant, astringent with minerality, a long drying finish, with a hint of bitterness. Perhaps a bit young, and would benefit from another year in cellar to show at its best. $40. 91 Points.
2010 Domaine de L’Églantière (Jean Durup) Chablis
- A good value Chablis at $16. Fermented and aged in a mix of concrete and stainless. Pale light yellow color. A nose that gives it away as Chablis immediately with notes of seashells, wet rock, and grapefruit. In the mouth its an easy drinking wine – bright citrus, refreshing acid, nice mineral notes, with a clean, lingering finish. An excellent everyday drinking wine that is true to Chablis. 89 Points.
From Kermit Lynch Berkeley Store
2010 Domaine Costal Chablis Les Truffières
- A Kermit Lynch collaboration wine with Domaine Costal. Fermented
and aged 10 months in stainless steel, followed by 3 months in demi-muid barrels (600-Liter.)
A solid Chablis for $25. Yellow straw color. The nose is a classic Chablis – white grapefruit peel, tangerine, wet stone, lime zest. In the mouth it’s slightly lusher, more viscous, than expected, but pleasing, hardly over ripe. The front palate is orange & citrus, the mid palate has nice weight, with minerality and saline, the finish is tart citrus, medium length. 91 Points
2011 Francine et Olivier Savary Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume
- A mid priced Chablis from Domaine Savary, from a small .75 hectare vineyard, 30 year old vines. Fermented and aged in stainless, aged on the lees. Yellow straw color. A little less detectably ‘Chablis’ on the nose, notes of green apple and white pear. In the mouth its a bit more steely on the mid palate and finish. Slightly rounder front and mid palate with red apple and lime, a modest finish of tangerine. $25. 88 Points.
Welcome to the Inaugural post of “Question of the Week.”
This week’s chosen question is week from a Facebook follower/friend Janey Patton Russell who enjoys wine, and learning. (One of the things I love about wine, is you are never done learning.)
I have a chardonnay question for you. You will laugh or may think my every day choice of chardonnay wine is gross. I really enjoy Clos Du Bois for my “everyday” wine sometimes I step it up to Rombauer or Sonoma Cutrer. That said do you have a suggestion for me for a nice, dry chardonnay? I like Sonoma, Russian River Valley. Tried Toasted Head here and there but over that. Prefer dry, a little buttery, but certainly not a lot. Come to think of it I like it dry and oaky!
Great questions. Long time friends of mine may find it ironic I am doing reviews of chardonnay and being asked questions. Until the last few years, I generally shunned chardonnays, my palette not enjoying most of the US made highly oaked, buttery styles. As I have dove headfirst into exploring whites, (especially Rhone varietals) I have learned more and more to be open minded, and explore more styles and countries.
Explore and Branch Out: The many names of chardonnay
I am hardly a Franco-phile, but I have been embracing French wines more (don’t worry Sonoma County, my heart is yours forever), especially white wine from Burgundy…..which is chardonnay. You may hear or see “white burgundy” or “chablis” or “pouilly-fuise” – don’t be confused. All of these are chardonnay, the latter two being appellations (regions) of Burgundy, France. Unfortunately many people hear ‘white burgundy’ or ‘chablis’ still have memories of low quality white jug wines from decades ago, in a travesty of marketing.
How to Pick a Wine, Where to Buy
One of the challenging things of recommending wine to the average consumer outside of this area, is there is little consistency, even in a national chain, of what you can buy. Even Costco varies what they offer by location. There are certainly a few brands you can find many places, but I have to say as a general rule, I shy away from a bottle of wine that had one million cases made. I am buying and tasting more larger production wines for review (my personal cellar still stays mostly small producers) to assist with this, but it will always be a challenge.
(It is worthwhile to note that even the million+ case wineries will bottle a release in much smaller scale. I was amazed at a visit to the La Crema winery (not the tasting room) to taste through 5 pinot noirs and 5 chardonnays. I knew of their massive scale releases, but was pleased to enjoy bottles of limited small lot production as well.)
So when asked, in addition to exact bottle/wine recommendations, I am will often give you some broader guidelines.
My answer to this enquiry:
” I generally drink a newer style of chard, which is unoaked and non ML (not buttery)…odds are you won’t find many of these in a every day retail store. Rombauer and Sonoma Cutrer are definately higher end better chards. If you ever see say, a Lynmar or Hartford Court (won’t be at Safeway) try them, although more pricey. They will have the oak and ML components, but be beautifully balanced.
One you could try, that should be easily found, is La Crema…they have several mass produced chardonnays that are widely distributed and decent, and they also have some great ones here that don’t make mass market. I haven’t tasted through Kendall Jackson’s chardonnay releases entirely, but enjoyed some of their whites at the Heirloom Tomato Festival this fall.
My best suggestion – try your local wine shop. Explain your tastes, and what you like, and what you want to spend. for the same money you will get something from a smaller winery. Let them recommend a few and buy 2-3 of those for comparison.
Be opened minded to other countries as well: French, Australia, Chile. I shunned France for years, but have re-opened that, especially now that I drink more chardonnay. Chardonnay from Pouilly-Fuissé region of Burgundy tend to be reasonable. I had one last night actually that I really enjoyed, I picked up at K and L Wines.
Don’t apologize for drinking chards, its one of the world’s most planted and consumed varietals, and the French still make really great, original style. The bad name came from the over oaked US garbage. Instead embrace it, and see what you can learn about styles, different areas. Australians’ make good chards as well.
My friend responded back with one more comment I thought worth sharing.
Thanks so much! I will try your suggestions. I had a feeling you being a real wine person would not drink chardonnay. I was told by a guy at the store to try this one French but I did not….I will go back and ask him again what it was. I’m going to embrace my love of chardonnay and learn as much as I can. Thanks for the boost of confidence! I’m told by my wine friends that real wine drinkers don’t drink anything bit reds.
I’d tell her the wine friends are clueless, but frankly I was one of those for 12+ of my 20 years drinking wine. It took some pushing and exploration at first, but once my mindset and palette cracked, and I discovered gems like Viognier, Torrontes, Rousanne, Marsanne, and now some chardonnay, pinot gris, chenin blanc and more – my experience and enjoyment of wine has increased many fold – so many more options, things to learn, and tastes, aromas to experience. Open your minds and palettes, try things, wine is a never ending journey, or should be.
And as I will constantly repeat, do not drink your white wine overchilled. (Unless its not very well made, then by all means drink it right from the fridge.) You can not experience the aroma, mouthfeel, and nuances of a wine if you drink it out of the fridge at 52 degrees.
Hope you found this useful, I’d love comments. You can also reach my on Facebook, Twitter, or the Contact Me, tab.